TRYX STAGE Installation
Like most AIOs, the installation of the be TRYX STAGE is a very straightforward process. As DIY PC building seems to be getting more popular each and every day, the option of AIO liquid coolers is sure to entice those wanting to have a more advanced build, and easy installation will go a long way towards not scaring off first-time builders. As I mentioned when I covered the included accessories, TRYX has included all of the necessary mounting hardware for modern AMD and Intel platforms, as well as a physical installation guide. We are seeing more companies move to digital versions of their product manuals, and while I appreciate their reduced waste, I still prefer a physical copy of installation instructions.
Our testing is performed with the fans in a push configuration, and as TRYX has already mounted the fans in this orientation, that was a step that we could skip past.
As previously mentioned, the STAGE has the Asetek Intel mounting hardware installed from the factory, so first off I had to replace it with the AMD mounting hardware for my Ryzen 7 7600X test system. This is a simple twist-off, twist-on process, and only takes a few seconds to swap between Intel and AMD mounting brackets.
TRYX does not use the factory AMD mounting clips for securing the cooler to the motherboard, so I did have to remove the plastic mounting brackets in order to secure the cooler to the motherboard. Instead, a combination of plastic and metal standoffs are attached to the board via the CPU backplate threads.
Another step that can be skipped is applying thermal paste to the CPU, as TRYX has provided pre-applied material to the base of the cooler. That said, they do provide a syringe of paste for any future installation needs.
With the mounting hardware in place on the motherboard, it is time to simply line up the cooler with the brackets, and tighten the included thumbscrews.
Next up is attaching the radiator to the top of our case. Using the twelve included screws, simply align them with the appropriate mounting points on your case, and tighten. I also made sure to thread the cable from the fans, as well as the 4-pin PWM cable for the pump, through the cable grommets in my case in preparation of wiring everything up.
The fan cabling consists of both 4-pin PWM and 3-pin ARGB connections, and routing them to the appropriate motherboard headers is easy, thanks to the generous cable length.
Last up was placing the LCD screen onto the pump housing, locking it into place with the aforementioned latch and then routing the attached cable to my motherboard’s USB 2.0 header, as well as connecting the SATA power cable to my power supply.
With all of the hardware in place and the wiring complete, it was time for testing.
